I Get It, You're White, You Eat Kale.
I was having a really hard time putting my finger on why it
bothers me so much when people bash McDonald’s. I mean, sure, it’s really bad
for you, and in general the company makes a profit off of serving poor people
in food deserts who are desperate for cheap calories, but what is it that is
intrinsically bad about their food?
So, I went
to McDonald’s and bought a Bacon Ranch Salad, which came in at 330 calories,
with the dressing. It looked fine. The lettuce was crisp, the bacon bits were
real, the cheese was some kind of yellow shredded substance, and the chicken –
which I had ordered grilled – looked properly cooked, albeit there were no
grill marks on it, so the claim of it being grilled held little water.
I ate about
half of it before I bit into some kind of weird, gristle-fat, substance, which
I spat out, and nearly puked because the texture was not of this world. It was
spongy and crunchy at the same time; much like a human ear might be if it had
been steam pressure cooked, and then sealed in a bag of solution for a week. It
was truly one of the most revolting experiences of my life, and you can be sure
that I will not be doing it again.
That being
said, I was amazed by how fast friends were to comment on how they would never
eat at McDonald’s. The smugness was palpable, and it was clear that so many
comments were designed to demonstrate their superiority. I could tell the
comments were designed to make the person feel better about their life choices,
and something about that rubbed me the wrong way. Sure, it’s fine to endeavor
to eat locally and pick organic ingredients, but this wasn’t that. This was
something different. This was purely speculative attack upon the ingredients of
the salad. Friends said things that suggested the items in my salad were not
unlike science experiments gone horribly wrong. As if my salad had been created
by Dr. Moreau himself. As if, given half an opportunity, the cherry tomatoes
would have sprouted legs and made a break for it, or even worse attacked!
I have
trouble with this because I know a lot about food and the food service
industry, and it bugs me because the wholesale dismissal of McDonald’s seems to
be less about their food being bad, and more about people making themselves
believe the food they eat is better.
It’s not.
One of the
things I do in my line of work is pay close attention to price volatility of
high priced ingredients. For example: last summer – 2013 – the price of beef in
the United States went up. Not all cuts of beef, but the ones most people know
about: Strip Steak, Prime Rib, Tenderloin, etc… This is because of prolonged
drought across the Midwest and throughout large parts of California, which
drove up grain prices over the last few years, and all the fast food chains
decided, instead of getting caught with their pants down again, to run lots and
lots of chicken products. Chicken prices went up a little too, but nothing like
beef, so they were hedging against future volatility by pushing consumers
towards chicken. Anyone who’s familiar with McDonald’s – and you don’t have to
eat there to know about their advertising – will have heard of the McRib. This
is another price volatility hedge. Every time beef goes up, they run the McRib,
and talk it up as “It’s Back! For a Limited Time Only!” Yea, it’s back for as
long as beef prices are up. Last summer was particularly hard, and just rolling
out the McRib wasn’t going to cut the mustard, and besides Burger King doesn’t
have that option, so all the chains went for chicken.
What
happened?
Well, the price
of chicken went through the room, but not just any chicken. Specifically, what
we in the industry call the “Random Breast.” Even more specifically, we call
them “Ten Up Randoms,” because what we’re going to get is a forty-pound case of
chicken breast, where each breast will weigh no less than ten ounces. In
professional kitchens you can order pretty much anything you want. You want a
case of perfect 6 oz breast? Sure, not a problem.
Five ounce,
butterflied? Yep.
Four ounce,
portion controlled, individually cryo-vacced? Sure, you can have that.
Chef and
kitchen managers all over the Country order these products every day, but what
we mostly order is random ten ups.
When
McDonald’s got in on the game, and all their buddies to boot, chicken prices went
up. That, in and of itself, is not that big of a deal, but what is interesting
is what we learned from it: that McDonald’s is using the same products every
other restaurant in the Country is using.
I can’t
imagine that McDonald’s goes to any trouble to have farmers grow any produce
that is different from what the industry calls “conventional,” which just means
it is not organic, local, or what have you. It’s the same stuff you buy in a
grocery store when you just grab a bag of Dole mixed greens and some carrots,
tomatoes, and cukes, without bothering to walk the extra ten feet to the
section with the organic items.
It’s the
SAME stuff!
Yet, in
droves, people pile on to talk about how the salad was just as bad as the
hamburger, that the product is suspicious, that the company is gross, and all
for the sake of making themselves feel better.
The problem
I have with this is that it’s not about what McDonald’s does wrong – and for
fuck’s sake, there is plenty to legitimately condemn them for – but rather,
it’s about giving oneself a pass on the ingredients already in the refrigerator
at home.
If
McDonald’s is really, supper, icky, bad, then it is easy to sleep at night with
the knowledge that we have done our part for good eating by staying away from them.
Never mind that the salad you have at your favorite locally owned restaurant is
the exact same thing, and anyway, it’s the dressings that are the real problem,
and the dressing I had today was Newman’s Own. If I whipped out a bottle of
that same dressing my naysaying friends would gladly eat it with gusto, and
probably commend me for purchasing a product that gives all profits to charity.
Newman’s Own is a good company, that is about doing good work, and anyone who
supports them is good, right?
So why not McDonald’s? Shouldn’t
they be commended for their choice to work with such an ethical company as
Newman’s? Of course not, they’re pure evil.
This is about smug dismissal of
facts, and ignoring what is really going on with American food. We see a trend
towards Whole Foods Markets, and purchasing local, organic, ingredients. I know
a lot of people who rejoice because they go to the local farm stand, where they
speak with “their farmer,” who they count as a friend. Like they’ve known them
from childhood, but I’ve never seen the same famer at their house for
cocktails.
So proud these folks are of their
positive choices, and oh how they rejoice in putting down those who don’t
follow their lead.
Want to
know something else about these friends I mention? They’re all white, college
educated, professionals with good incomes, who live in the country, or in super
upscale city communities, with fresh markets all around. They condemn the fast
food salad because it makes them feel good about themselves, but in a way,
they’re also saying, “Look how successful I am.” It’s a fucking status symbol,
and if that’s true, then they’re also saying, “Suck it poor people!”
Think about
it: if the ingredients that McDonald’s uses are the same as those found in the
vast majority of restaurants and grocery stores, and as such, the ingredients
consumed by most of America, to dismiss them as in some way beneath, or foul in
nature, is to say that the vast majority of Americans are gross in the choices
they make in what they eat. Often times, the person making such outlandish
claims about food products doesn’t know sweet fuck all about food, and indeed,
they’re insulting themselves.
I guess
what I’m saying is, I get it, you’re white, you eat kale.